Back to Basics: Introduction to Knitting

By Kandis Hamrick

Choosing your tools

There are a variety of needle types to choose from in knitting. In addition to having straight sets of needles in varying sizes, there are also double-pointed needles (DPNs) and circular knitting needles. Standard knitting needles are pointed on one end and have a cap of some kind on the other, sometimes flat, sometimes rounded.

DPNs are much shorter than standard knitting needles and (as the name suggests) are pointed at both ends; they are typically used in knitting socks or other small projects that are knit in the round.

Circular knitting needles can vary greatly because in addition to different needle sizes, there are different cable lengths to consider. These needles are used for two reasons: knitting in the round or knitting a much larger project as you can keep more stitches on the cable.

Other factors to consider in choosing your needles is the material they’re made with. Common materials for needles are wood/bamboo, nickel/aluminum, or acrylic. I recommend trying each so you can see what feels right for you; personally, I don’t like the feel of acrylic and I prefer the sound of metal needles as you work, but for some that sound might be annoying. Use whatever feels right for you.

Simple stitches

Cast on
k - knit
p - purl
yo - yarn over
Bind off

Stockinette stitch is among the most recognizable stitches in knitting and is accomplished by alternating a row of knit stitches and a row of purl stitches.

Another common stitch pattern is the ribbed stitch which is accomplished by alternating knit and purl stitches to form vertical rows; this can be a simple k1, p1 pattern or wider ribs can be created by repeating k2, p2 and so on.

Putting it together

Once you’ve cast on using your preferred method, you’ll need to knit your first row. In the first row you’ll need to be careful to maintain the correct tension in your stitches. If your cast-on was loose then you may end up with loose loops in your first row. This is something that may take some practice to get just right, or you may want to try a different method of casting on that you find easier. There’s no right or wrong choice here, it just depends on your preference.

As you work knit stitches, you’ll want to keep your working yarn behind your work; when you work purl stitches, you’ll want to keep your working yarn in front of your work. When you reach the end of a row, you will simply turn your work and start your next row. When your project is the desired length, bind off and weave in the end of your yarn.

Simplifying Socks (Cuff-down)

By Kandis Hamrick

As a beginning knitter, I was incredibly intimidated by anything more complicated than knit and purl. I desperately wanted to knit socks but feared I wouldn't be able to figure it out alone. Unfortunately, I didn't really have the option of taking a class so I decided just to go for it.

After recently deciding to give socks as Christmas gifts, I went in search of an easy way to calculate stitches for different sized socks. Most resources I found seemed so complicated that I quickly navigated away and nearly gave up. That's when I found Tessa Lau and her basic sock pattern. It was just what I needed!

She simplifies the math for customizing your pattern and her directions are clear and concise. If you want to knit socks, I recommend starting with her pattern. I won't repeat the pattern here, but listed below are the different stitches you'll need to know and links to video tutorials. I've also added some tips of my own.

Stitches you'll need to know:

k - knit
p - purl
ssk - slip slip knit
k2tog - knit 2 together
p2tog - purl 2 together
ktichner stitch (also known as grafting)

You may also find these videos helpful: ribbed stitch & stockinette stitch.

My Advice:

Change your needle size. I can't remember where I first found this, but I read once that you should go down a needle size when you cast on your socks. I ignored this because my DPN (double-pointed needle) collection is very limited. I found that my sock cuff was really loose. Since I meant this pair to be comfy house socks, it didn't really matter. For the next pair, I wanted a snugger fit so I decreased the number of stitches I cast on and did a simple increase after the ribbing. To see how to do a make 1 increase, click here.

Knit the gauge! The gauge is a swatch that you knit using your chosen yarn and needles that you then measure to determine your stitches per inch. The size of needles and weight of yarn can drastically change the size of an end product. I always used to think this was a waste of time, but it really is vital if you want to make sure your end product is the right size.

Bulkier yarn makes for faster projects. Use bulky yarn and larger DPNs to complete a project more quickly. This will make warm, comfy socks more suited for lounging around the house than for daily use, but they'll go fast! Just think how accomplished you'll feel when you can brag to everyone about how quickly you made your own socks!

Trust the pattern and trust yourself! At first some of the directions may seem strange, but trust me when I say it'll make sense in the end. You may second-guess yourself and your abilities. I've been there. Don't do it. I once went to a yarn shop and told the owner I felt that I needed to take classes with real knitters because I was afraid that I wasn't doing things properly since I was mostly self-taught. She looked at me and asked: "Did it unravel?" I shook my head and she asked: "Did it turn out the way you wanted it to?" I nodded. She smiled and told me: "Then you did it right. The rest doesn't matter." And that's the thought I want to leave you all with.